Cuban and foreign tourists alike mix on the sandy beach and enjoy the turquoise ocean at Varadero resort. (Nick Miroff/GlobalPost)

At Cuban resorts, the end of tourism apartheid

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Cubans can now check in as guests at beach resorts, creating a boom for local tourism.

By Nick Miroff
Published: August 10, 2009 06:28 ET

VARADERO, Cuba — This massive resort complex may be unfamiliar to most Americans, but to legions of European and Canadian vacationers, it is the Cuba of travel brochures: white sand beaches, turquoise waters and all-inclusive discount getaways. With more than 50 hotels and counting, it has grown into one of the largest tourism destinations in the Caribbean.

U.S. travel restrictions have kept Americans out of Varadero’s resorts, and until last year, ordinary Cubans couldn’t stay at them, either. While Cuban workers poured the drinks and fluffed the pillows, a so-called “tourism apartheid” system banned Cubans from checking in as guests. But after Raul Castro officially took over Cuba’s presidency from his older brother last year, he put an end to the widely resented policy, and opened the communist island’s resorts to any Cuban of means.

Given that the average wage on the island is less than $20 a month, the change was largely considered a symbolic one at the time. But this summer, something unusual has been happening up and down the beach at Varadero. The hotels are filling with cash-wielding locals.

Every morning in front of Havana’s stately Capitolio, a caravan of air-conditioned tour buses arrives to pick up Cubans who have purchased discount package deals to Varadero’s all-inclusive resorts. For less than $200 per person, they can get a week-long stay that includes transportation, lodging at a three or four-star resort, and a plastic wristband entitling them to as much food and alcohol as they can consume. In a country accustomed to rationing and other austerity measures, that’s a ticket to fantasyland.

One employee of a state-run tourism company said his agency was sending 400 Cubans to Varadero each day, creating a surge in business during what is ordinarily the low season for international tourism. Many of Varadero’s upper-end facilities are still full of foreigners, but the more affordable resorts have been jammed with Cubans all summer.

“I’m having a great time,” said Erick Llanio, a Havana resident sitting poolside with his family at a resort called Cuatro Palmas. The all-you-can-eat buffets were especially novel to him.

“A lot of foreigners who come here may be used to it, but in my case, it’s the first time,” said Llanio. “So I see things and say ‘What’s that? What’s this? This is tasty!’ Foreigners say they don’t like the food, but I’m like ‘This is great!’”

The sudden arrival of so many Cubans can be a challenge for hotel managers, and there have been some accounts of pilfering from hotel rooms and decimated buffet tables. While foreign tourists tend to prefer reading and lounging quietly in the sun, Cuban beachgoers often like loud music — using their vacation time to party, not to relax.

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Posted by david wayne osedach on August 10, 2009 09:55 ET

All you can eat? All you can drink? In a 3 or 4 star hotel for $200. bucks a week? I'm retiring and going there today!

Posted by Lex desde Texas on August 10, 2009 12:34 ET

My Cuban friends tell me that the Cuban nationals are often sent to hotels different than those for the tourists.

There the food quality is decidely uneven...and items often run out quickly, not to be replenished! Except for the booze.

Lex Wadelski
Austin, Texas
http://thehypervigilantobserver.blogspot.com/

Posted by miabanera on August 12, 2009 12:53 ET

Good observation, something I wasn’t aware of, but the answer is quite simply this, since the Obama administration changed the remittance policy which now allows any Cuban-American to send as much money as they want to their familiies in Cuba, and travel without time restictions; the impact must somehow be a cause-effect factor from both these changes in policy. The sad part is that as you mentioned most cuban nationals do no make enough to enjoy these restaurants and beaches on a constant basis, and they other thing is they must convert what they earn into CUC (convertible currency) and lose 25 cents on each dollar they spend, which is a fee collected by the Castro government. Also, not all Cubans despite this policy change benefit, those who do not have family abroad get no remittances, and those the government can arbitrarily discriminate against, are not permitted near tourist areas. The way I see it, the people of Cuba do not get to enjoy their country in the same manner that foreign visitors can. The cash strapped government of Raul Castro is willing to do anything to increase tourism to the island, already in decline from the global recession. It is an act of desperation on behalf of the government of Castro, allowing cuban nationals access to their emptying hotels (which they own and run with foreign investors) and not an ideological shift or improvement in the horrid economic and political conditions under which they people of Cuba live.

Posted by ninetymiles on August 12, 2009 15:05 ET

"But this summer, something unusual has been happening up and down the beach at Varadero. The hotels are filling with cash-wielding locals."

This shouldn't be a secret to anyone. Since Obama has eased the restrictions to the Cubans in the US, the money is flowing back home again and, rather than spending the money on bettering their daily conditions, the thoughtless relatives are blowing it all on beach vacations. Of course, the suckers over here have to work two jobs so that they can afford the plush vacations of the relatives over there. Must be nice...

Posted by Joe Public on August 13, 2009 10:17 ET

I'm Canadian. Just wanted to post an observation on why Canadians choose Cuba as a destination over all the other Carribean destinations; because there are no Americans. It's a sad result of a decade of Bush world politics which will probably take more than a decade to repair. The best way would be for Americans to give up this strange treatment of a neighbouring country and normalise all relations with Cuba. The world is watching.

Posted by MisterHansHummer on August 17, 2009 02:23 ET

Ok,Ok,ok Cuba,the Cigar was pretty good AND lasted a few days!It said Habana on the decorative band encircling the cirCUMference!But,still,Eye am unobtrused at the thought of letting my Americans among your beaches sew that the MY Joe Montana dudes ,Not Tony Montana ,can say Say Hello,To My BIG Friend,to your Cuban Babes!After all you are STILL Communists!The Babes of Cuba Eye can excuse though! Signed Joe Montana,Quarterback

Posted by bjbrian on August 17, 2009 20:23 ET

nick, some of the best info coming out of Cuba comes from you.
i guess, in these times, you have no email but thanks so much
for your "exquisite" work!

Posted by peterhro on September 12, 2009 12:24 ET

This will perhaps sound selfish, but I really like the US embargo! For one, you won't be overrun by American vacationers. Also, La Habana is blissfully free of McDonalds and similar atrocities.

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