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A trip to Cairo’s Friday Market

Snake charmers, bootleggers, bat's blood vendors, gambling dens ... plus, for those who need them, appliances and TV sets.

Mohammad Mahmoud yells for bets in the game of Berwaz. Gamblers put down Egyptian pound notes on a board, making their choice of numbers and symbols. The dice clatter to the table. One shows a “2” and the other a heart. One man at the corner of the table, a stack of bills in front of him, smiles.

A policeman, watching the illegal proceedings, slides furtively from his tableside perch, disappearing into the crowd.

Mahmoud typically pulls in about 1,000 pounds, or just under $200, per day. After paying off his plants — friends who pretend to gamble — and an array of prowling police officers, Mahmoud and his brother split the remainder. So as if in penance for his sins, Mahmoud earns only $20 to $30 on a good Friday, or so he says. The sum feeds his family of 10.

Even to earn that pittance, he explains, he has rigged the game heavily in his favor. Magnets under the board and in the dice help insure he rolls a disproportionate number of "ones," a losing number for everybody, according to the rules.

Two of Mahmoud’s friends stand tableside, a pile of cash between them. “No one can win if the man operating the game is a professional,” Mahmoud said, adding that: “Everybody knows this market has gambling, but no one can do anything about it.”

That’s because the roughly 15 gambling stands that operate in the market all have agreements with the police. Not only do their bribes reach into the middle ranks of the force, but gambling ring operators like Mahmoud actually serve as informants to the police, keeping a finger on the pulse of the market, reporting any misdeeds.

Wrinkles etch the edges of Mahmoud’s features, however, and only the faintest fleck of a smile ever seems to flicker across his face.

He’s made a living sinning in the eyes of his state, his god, and himself. And he seems burdened by it. “We know for a fact that this is not decent work,” he said, “and we don’t feel honored to be doing it.”

And despite their comfortable standing with the police, the men who run the gambling ring aren’t, apparently, without scruples.

“I don’t let foreigners play," said a man, asking to be identified only as Rizk, who runs a game with a wheel that calls to mind an American mainstay, Wheel of Fortune, "because I don’t want to affect tourism.”

More GlobalPost dispatches from Egypt:

A library with great expectations

A tale of two lovers

Trash or treasure? Egypt's poorest decide 

http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/egypt/090706/trip-cairo%E2%80%99s-friday-market