Peter DiCampoSeptember 26, 2009 09:30Updated May 30, 2010 13:08

Ghana’s Kayayo girls do heavy lifting

Young female porters eke out a living, strive for better lives

The girls rise early each morning and spend long hours waiting in a market or on a street corner, hoping to find someone who needs them to transport their purchased goods or personal belongings. The loads they carry on their heads are heavy and enormous: head-pans full of tomatoes or yams, or a traveler’s bursting suitcase.

But if the story their words tell is of hardship and poverty, their actions often display their enthusiasm for a chance at independence and opportunity.

At the entrance to Doctor Mensah market in Kumasi, Ghana’s second largest city, a daily scene unfolds that seems an unvarying part of Kayayo life. Ten or 15 girls sit on their overturned white head-pans, chatting, giggling and pointing at the people who walk by.

When a bus full of passengers pulls into the bustling station, the girls spring to their feet in a cloud of dust. They laugh and shout as they chase the vehicle, and some of them jump onto the back bumper and peer inside. Long before the bus has stopped, they are claiming pieces of luggage and calculating how much money they might earn by carrying them.

Most of the passengers take their luggage and go, without any assistance. Still, the girls are playful as they return to their seats, skipping and pushing each other along as they walk.

“I like this place,” claims one of the girls, Alietu, who is no more than 13 years old. She is from Wa, capital of the Upper West Region. Uneducated, she was raised with five brothers and sisters by her mother alone after her father died. About a year ago, her older sister, a hairdresser who teaches Alietu the trade on weekends, led her to Kumasi. Like others who plan to stay in the cities, rather than return to their villages, she cites a newfound freedom as the reason for her decision.

“I miss my mother, but I won’t go back. Here, I’m free. I don’t work for anybody. After market, I don’t fetch water for anybody. I don’t have to go to farm and then come and cook.”

Whether they like their lives in the city or not, all of the Kayayo tend to agree on one thing: they could not make this money in their home villages.

Hamama Mahama, a middle-aged mother of four, has been working in Accra for months at a time throughout her life. She makes more money than her husband, a farmer, and is putting three of her children through school.

“For us, we’re used to this,” she said.

“But our children shouldn’t have to come and do this.”

(Peter DiCampo reported from Ghana on a grant from the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting.)