SUVA, Fiji — For most people Fiji means fun in the sun and aesthetically pleasing water bottles. The reality for nearly 1 million Fijians, however, has been far less idyllic. Racial tensions simmer. Corruption and endemic instability have led to four coups since independence from Britain in 1970. The current prime minister, Commodore Josaia Voreqe “Frank” Bainimarama, declared martial law in 2009, after taking power in a 2006 putsch. Recently, however, things have begun to change for the better.