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ARUNACHAL PRADESH — From the service road above the Lower Subansiri Dam, in northeast India, the river below looks deep and still, a dark forest green. On the bank opposite, a mammoth conveyor carries silt and gravel from a quarry half a mile away. Upstream, brilliant red cranes tower over the 380-foot wall of concrete and steel — nearly completed — which will soon submerge some 8,500 acres of land. The Lower Subansiri Dam is just one of more than 150 dams proposed in the state of Arunachal Pradesh that threaten to wipe out thousands of acres of breathtaking forest, dozens of fascinating tribal cultures and some of the world's best whitewater for adventure tourism.