SHOROUK, Egypt — Mohamed Abou El Ghar roared triumphantly as his opponent slid across the court, missing the match point shot. Abou El Ghar was on to the finals. The Cairo Zone squash tournament, one of the country’s premier junior matchups, was being played in Shorouk, a dusty town on the Saharan plane, about 20 miles east of Cairo. Just before El Ghar’s match, two 12-year-old girls had squared off in a semifinal, each player looking to the stands after each point, their body language begging for their parents' approval.

MOKATTAM, Egypt – A baby’s wail echoed across the plaza. His mother’s face was etched with joy as she struggled to subdue her writhing infant. The children who had gathered around roared with delight. Church had just finished. It had been a long service. But for the children of the congregation, this was the highlight. And Girgis Gabriel Girgis, with his ancient (though he swears sanitary) tattoo machine, was more than happy to oblige.

CAIRO, Egypt — We had just finished Round One of an intense interview with Ayman Nour. The 2005 runner-up for the Egyptian presidency, who subsequently spent three years in jail, slipped out for a cigarette on the rooftop of his opulent Cairo apartment before heading inside to resume his interview with GlobalPost. Halfway to his seat, though, he stopped and beckoned me to come close.